what car do you drive

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mostirreverent
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Re: what car do you drive

Postby mostirreverent » Thu Sep 07, 2017 2:12 am

bmelissa545 wrote:I drive a Mercedes ML 500. I love it because the steering is tight and feels sporty - not like the Cadillac I used to drive that felt like driving a boat.

but you buy a used mac...

Saab convertible. I like how it handles, much better than the volvo C70 I test drove.
hough I prefer the power of my daughters better turbo, in her Saab that I'm also driving while she is away.

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The main reason I bought it is I've always loved all the buttons in saabs. I had a 9-5 before this

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Re: what car do you drive

Postby denisehornsby » Wed Sep 13, 2017 2:39 pm

Nice car, I have always liked Saabs especially convertables. A friend of mine had one-unusual place for the ignition key though!! must be a reason?
I have a convertable too, an SL55 which I really enjoy. I like to have three things down: my hair, the top (if its sunny) and my right foot especially in sexy high heels,
KR Denise

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Re: what car do you drive

Postby mostirreverent » Thu Sep 14, 2017 2:37 am

denisehornsby wrote:Nice car, I have always liked Saabs especially convertables. A friend of mine had one-unusual place for the ignition key though!! must be a reason?
I have a convertable too, an SL55 which I really enjoy. I like to have three things down: my hair, the top (if its sunny) and my right foot especially in sexy high heels,
KR Denise

I've heard it said if was so you didn't hit it in a crash. the first ones were quite quirky, and were 2 stroke engines, so my guess is it was due to shorter wiring or something to do with manufacturing. I like it there, but it could have been another cup holder too.

I hate when it rains, especially if I have to take a long trip. I generally leave the top down all year, though in recent years, 30F is my limit in the winter.

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Re: what car do you drive

Postby racetech » Sat Oct 14, 2017 9:03 am

vw scirocco,, :D

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Re: what car do you drive

Postby Anya.186 » Sun Oct 15, 2017 4:37 pm

mostirreverent wrote:
bmelissa545 wrote:I drive a Mercedes ML 500. I love it because the steering is tight and feels sporty - not like the Cadillac I used to drive that felt like driving a boat.

but you buy a used mac...

Saab convertible. I like how it handles, much better than the volvo C70 I test drove.
hough I prefer the power of my daughters better turbo, in her Saab that I'm also driving while she is away.

Image

The main reason I bought it is I've always loved all the buttons in saabs. I had a 9-5 before this

Image


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Re: what car do you drive

Postby mostirreverent » Fri Nov 17, 2017 3:18 am

A friend saw a license plate that read SNAAB :D
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Re: what car do you drive

Postby Anya.186 » Fri Nov 17, 2017 6:20 pm

Saab, Mercedes, seriously?
Waay out of my class.
I'll take my 4,700 pound Subaru anywhere. :clap:
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Re: what car do you drive

Postby denisehornsby » Mon Nov 27, 2017 3:56 am

Hi,
I still drive the same SL55, loads of power (uprated BHP!!)and great fun especially in summer. I enjoy it most when I put the top down,let my hair down and put my right foot down especially in sexy high heels!!
DeniseXX

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Re: what car do you drive

Postby ChristinaIsHere » Mon Nov 27, 2017 11:36 am

When it's not breaking down a 1997 Fleetwood Bounder, 34' RV.

What would tear up distributor teeth? Cam or Oil Pump?

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Re: what car do you drive

Postby mostirreverent » Fri Jan 05, 2018 5:32 am

ChristinaIsHere wrote:When it's not breaking down a 1997 Fleetwood Bounder, 34' RV.

What would tear up distributor teeth? Cam or Oil Pump?

I thought they were tied to the cam shaft in older cars, so that the points are aligned with the cam timing. the oil pump is driven by the crank shaft

some are 90 degrees from it, and other are on the ends of the shaft, or indirectly via a belt or chain called a timing belt or timing chain.

end of shaft
Image


90 degrees from it
Image
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Re: what car do you drive

Postby ChristinaIsHere » Fri Jan 05, 2018 8:57 am

mostirreverent wrote:
ChristinaIsHere wrote:When it's not breaking down a 1997 Fleetwood Bounder, 34' RV.

What would tear up distributor teeth? Cam or Oil Pump?

I thought they were tied to the cam shaft in older cars, so that the points are aligned with the cam timing. the oil pump is driven by the crank shaft

some are 90 degrees from it, and other are on the ends of the shaft, or indirectly via a belt or chain called a timing belt or timing chain.

end of shaft
Image


90 degrees from it
Image


You are the bees knees for going through all that trouble, very cool of you and sweet, thank you so much.

You seem very knowledgeable and Im grateful you responded. Ive owned this less than a year, low miles isnt always a good thing as mostly it wasnt used, just sat around, so Ive spent my saving in my little money pit fixing it up. Didnt have engine issues mainly home part. So I travel and it lasted close to 7000 miles that Ive put on it.
Something ate the distributor teeth, going down the road I hear pop pop then it cranks but not no spark, I didnt go anywhere.
With the original distributor and just replacing the teeth it lasted all of 1000 miles and something ate just the teeth again. Mind you this is approximately only 3 months apart from the teeth breaking again.
I didnt want to take any chances so I bought a new distributor. Drives like a dream, super smooth, thing is is I dont know whether that fixed it or if its the oil pump (mechanic who helped fix mentioned that could harden up and was hard to turn when they were top dead center and manually timed).
Other mechanics disagree and claim because of the softer metal only something harder can literally tear it to bit and knock a few teeth out, like the cam shaft or bearings.
My issue that I hold is although it drives and feels amazing I dont know how long it will last. Did replacing the distributor fix it? If a new oil pump is needed for me to do myself its about $350-$400. For a cam or crank or bearing its deep and costly and about $2500-$3000. Big ass difference.
Im trying to narrow it down and truly its down to those 3 things. Im free sure but its like my wings have been clipped.
Do you have any knowledge on that small percent unique fix that its an oil pump that could also tear the distributor teeth up? It can happen and with this thing its been a steady array of constant uniqueness in fixing it up.
Im hoping for the one I can do. Anyone who can turn a wrench can do the oil pump change, only two bolts, but new oil change is required anyway because the shavings from the teeth are hopefully at the bottom of the oil pan stuck the magnet (hopefully) and not in my engine somewhere.

I feel kinda stuck most irreverent because Im not sure which one it is. Its one of the 3..Fixed already, oil pump, or cam shaft (or deep engine fix like bearings or the like).

Thanks again for being so sweet and sharing these pics.

454 Chevy Chassis

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Re: what car do you drive

Postby kinghelfer » Sat Jan 06, 2018 4:02 pm

ChristinaIsHere wrote:
mostirreverent wrote:
ChristinaIsHere wrote:When it's not breaking down a 1997 Fleetwood Bounder, 34' RV.

What would tear up distributor teeth? Cam or Oil Pump?

I thought they were tied to the cam shaft in older cars, so that the points are aligned with the cam timing. the oil pump is driven by the crank shaft

some are 90 degrees from it, and other are on the ends of the shaft, or indirectly via a belt or chain called a timing belt or timing chain.

end of shaft
Image


90 degrees from it
Image


You are the bees knees for going through all that trouble, very cool of you and sweet, thank you so much.

You seem very knowledgeable and Im grateful you responded. Ive owned this less than a year, low miles isnt always a good thing as mostly it wasnt used, just sat around, so Ive spent my saving in my little money pit fixing it up. Didnt have engine issues mainly home part. So I travel and it lasted close to 7000 miles that Ive put on it.
Something ate the distributor teeth, going down the road I hear pop pop then it cranks but not no spark, I didnt go anywhere.
With the original distributor and just replacing the teeth it lasted all of 1000 miles and something ate just the teeth again. Mind you this is approximately only 3 months apart from the teeth breaking again.
I didnt want to take any chances so I bought a new distributor. Drives like a dream, super smooth, thing is is I dont know whether that fixed it or if its the oil pump (mechanic who helped fix mentioned that could harden up and was hard to turn when they were top dead center and manually timed).
Other mechanics disagree and claim because of the softer metal only something harder can literally tear it to bit and knock a few teeth out, like the cam shaft or bearings.
My issue that I hold is although it drives and feels amazing I dont know how long it will last. Did replacing the distributor fix it? If a new oil pump is needed for me to do myself its about $350-$400. For a cam or crank or bearing its deep and costly and about $2500-$3000. Big ass difference.
Im trying to narrow it down and truly its down to those 3 things. Im free sure but its like my wings have been clipped.
Do you have any knowledge on that small percent unique fix that its an oil pump that could also tear the distributor teeth up? It can happen and with this thing its been a steady array of constant uniqueness in fixing it up.
Im hoping for the one I can do. Anyone who can turn a wrench can do the oil pump change, only two bolts, but new oil change is required anyway because the shavings from the teeth are hopefully at the bottom of the oil pan stuck the magnet (hopefully) and not in my engine somewhere.

I feel kinda stuck most irreverent because Im not sure which one it is. Its one of the 3..Fixed already, oil pump, or cam shaft (or deep engine fix like bearings or the like).

Thanks again for being so sweet and sharing these pics.

454 Chevy Chassis


I'd have said there was not enough oil getting to that end of the camshaft that drives the distributor. There shouldn't be any more force exerted on the gear teeth than anywhere else. Oil is what stops metal to metal contact. If the rocker cover is off you can still crank the engine and see if there is a blocked oilway and see that oil is getting to the connecting teeth. Also check the type of oil used, too thin and it won't stop metal parts touching, too thick and it won't run into places it should. After normal running, the inside of the rocker/camshaft cover should be covered in oil.
Image


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Re: what car do you drive

Postby ChristinaIsHere » Sat Jan 06, 2018 7:48 pm

kinghelfer wrote:
ChristinaIsHere wrote:
mostirreverent wrote:
ChristinaIsHere wrote:When it's not breaking down a 1997 Fleetwood Bounder, 34' RV.

What would tear up distributor teeth? Cam or Oil Pump?

I thought they were tied to the cam shaft in older cars, so that the points are aligned with the cam timing. the oil pump is driven by the crank shaft

some are 90 degrees from it, and other are on the ends of the shaft, or indirectly via a belt or chain called a timing belt or timing chain.

end of shaft
Image


90 degrees from it
Image


You are the bees knees for going through all that trouble, very cool of you and sweet, thank you so much.

You seem very knowledgeable and Im grateful you responded. Ive owned this less than a year, low miles isnt always a good thing as mostly it wasnt used, just sat around, so Ive spent my saving in my little money pit fixing it up. Didnt have engine issues mainly home part. So I travel and it lasted close to 7000 miles that Ive put on it.
Something ate the distributor teeth, going down the road I hear pop pop then it cranks but not no spark, I didnt go anywhere.
With the original distributor and just replacing the teeth it lasted all of 1000 miles and something ate just the teeth again. Mind you this is approximately only 3 months apart from the teeth breaking again.
I didnt want to take any chances so I bought a new distributor. Drives like a dream, super smooth, thing is is I dont know whether that fixed it or if its the oil pump (mechanic who helped fix mentioned that could harden up and was hard to turn when they were top dead center and manually timed).
Other mechanics disagree and claim because of the softer metal only something harder can literally tear it to bit and knock a few teeth out, like the cam shaft or bearings.
My issue that I hold is although it drives and feels amazing I dont know how long it will last. Did replacing the distributor fix it? If a new oil pump is needed for me to do myself its about $350-$400. For a cam or crank or bearing its deep and costly and about $2500-$3000. Big ass difference.
Im trying to narrow it down and truly its down to those 3 things. Im free sure but its like my wings have been clipped.
Do you have any knowledge on that small percent unique fix that its an oil pump that could also tear the distributor teeth up? It can happen and with this thing its been a steady array of constant uniqueness in fixing it up.
Im hoping for the one I can do. Anyone who can turn a wrench can do the oil pump change, only two bolts, but new oil change is required anyway because the shavings from the teeth are hopefully at the bottom of the oil pan stuck the magnet (hopefully) and not in my engine somewhere.

I feel kinda stuck most irreverent because Im not sure which one it is. Its one of the 3..Fixed already, oil pump, or cam shaft (or deep engine fix like bearings or the like).

Thanks again for being so sweet and sharing these pics.

454 Chevy Chassis


I'd have said there was not enough oil getting to that end of the camshaft that drives the distributor. There shouldn't be any more force exerted on the gear teeth than anywhere else. Oil is what stops metal to metal contact. If the rocker cover is off you can still crank the engine and see if there is a blocked oilway and see that oil is getting to the connecting teeth. Also check the type of oil used, too thin and it won't stop metal parts touching, too thick and it won't run into places it should. After normal running, the inside of the rocker/camshaft cover should be covered in oil.


Thank you sooo very much! I appreciate your insight on this. I get more why the good Samaritan mechanic mentioned the oil pump. Im going to replace the oil pump. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

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Re: what car do you drive

Postby kinghelfer » Sat Jan 06, 2018 8:30 pm

Google says your RV has a Ford V8 in it. If you want to start with the oil pump first thing to do is check the oil screen. The oil pump sucks oil through a metal mesh screen like this Image to screen out particles of crap, You have said that your RV was little used when you bought it. If the oil hasn't been changed because they hardly used it, its possible its been contaminated with water. Water gets into the oil as condensation from the air cooling down in the sump which has a breather pipe to allow for pressure changes. Oil and water combined make a cheese like sludge which can block the metal screen for the oil pump. Image
If this is the case, then its just a clean out, engine flush and fresh oil, To get to the oil pump the oil sump will have to be removed. I'd let a garage do it.
Image


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Re: what car do you drive

Postby kinghelfer » Sat Jan 06, 2018 9:52 pm

ChristinaIsHere wrote:When it's not breaking down a 1997 Fleetwood Bounder, 34' RV.

What would tear up distributor teeth? Cam or Oil Pump?


Google says this is a more common problem than you might think https://www.google.co.uk/search?biw=118 ... Vhxuz8ytRE

But it should be an easy fix by a Ford dealer :wink:
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